Monthly Archives: September 2016

Cuter than Humphry: The CD recreates San Francisco’s iconic Humphry Slocombe’s Secret Breakfast ice cream

 What’s the “secret” in secret breakfast? What does breakfast have to do with ice cream? Find out below and get a fun ice cream recipe to impress your friends!When I had my first bite of Secret Breakfast at San Francisco’s iconic Humphry Slocombe ice creamery, I was a skeptic unmade. Its velvety base bears a subtle, smoky hint of bourbon with a touch of saltiness and butter. The best part is a bite of bourbon-laced clusters of cornflakes. I can safely say I’ve never had bourbon for breakfast, but if I had a secret breakfast, this one would be ideal.

A few friends convinced me to host a potluck in the urban oasis I call my San Francisco apartment, before I have to move out. With a great setting, I wanted to make something memorable. Homemade ice cream definitely has a Wow! factor, so I needed something unique. But I was out of ideas. Perhaps something adult and refined. Something unique.

It hit me: why couldn’t I try my hand at recreating Humphry Slocombe’s Secret Breakfast? Bourbon ice cream? I previously experimented with bourbon when I made this bourbon-caramel ice cream last year. And I had stale Frosted Flakes in my pantry, so it was doable.

The brown-butter bourbon custard base is creamy and the bourbon flavor subtle. If you have more time, you could separately reduce a larger quantity of bourbon over low heat and fold that into the brown butter mixture in order to intensify the bourbon flavor of the base.

 

bourbon cornflake brittle, uncut

 
The tricky part was trying to recreate the salty-sweet intensity of the bourbon-infused cornflake clusters without a recipe. Somehow, this one worked perfectly on the first try! The second secret is to bake the cornflakes on low heat for a prolonged period, which creates a sort of cornflake brittle. The honey, maple, bourbon, and butter glaze is addictive, and I found myself snacking on the clusters in the 48 hours between when I made them and when I actually assembled the ice cream. I used Frosted Flakes, but any type of pure corn flake will suffice.

  
When the churning was complete, I was overwhelmed by my guests’ reviews. “Better than Humphry, “You nailed the cornflakes,” “Well, you’re probably cuter than Humphry too,” “WTF”, and “this is so addictive” were a few of the comments. Despite a heavy meal and full stomachs, almost everyone went back for second and third helpings. Not a drip of this unique ice cream remained when my friends left my home.

It tastes far superior when served an hour or two after it is churned. I recommend making the custard base and cornflake brittle at least 24 hours in advance, and churn the ice cream right before serving. Freezing the churned ice cream for an hour or two will help ensure a more solid, yet still creamy texture. When storing leftovers – if you have any! – try to use small containers that you can pack to the brim (no air gap), which will slow the growth of ice crystals.

#CuterthanHumphry Bourbon Cornflake Ice Cream

  • Difficulty: Moderate
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Yield – One Quart

Bourbon cornflake brittle

  • 1/4 cup honey (orange blossom honey recommended)
  • 2 Tbsp. maple syrup
  • 1 Tbsp. Salted butter
  • 3 Tbsp. Bourbon whisky
  • 1/4 tsp. sea salt
  • 2 1/2 cups stale corn flakes

Preheat oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit.

  
In a medium mixing bowl, combine all ingredients except for the corn flakes. If any ingredients remain solid, microwave the mixture on LOW power for 15-30 seconds. Whisk until smooth. Fold in cornflakes.

  
Line a rimmed baking pan with parchment paper. Spread cornflake mixture in a thin layer across the pan. Bake for 90 minutes.

While baking, make the ice cream custard base. Cool the cornflake. Clusters completely before serving.

When baking is complete, remove the cornflakes from the oven. Cool. The cornflakes may be pliable or soft in texture when warm, but as they cool, they should harden. When cool, break the cornflakes into granola-sized clusters. Store in an airtight container until ready to churn and add them to the ice cream.

Ice cream base

  • 1 Tbsp. butter
  • 1/2 c. Brown sugar
  • 1 c. Plus 4 tbsp. heavy whipping cream
  • 1/3 c. Bourbon whisky
  • 1 tsp. Vanilla extract
  • 1/3 tsp. Sea salt
  • 3 cups whole milk
  • 6 egg yolks, room temperature
  • 1/2 c. Granulated sugar

In a medium pot or saucepan over medium-low heat (just under medium), melt the butter. Allow the butter to brown, stirring/whisking infrequently until the bitter is uniformly light brown in color.

  
 It may appear grainy when left alone – that’s not a problem. It should have a toffee-like, caramelized flavor when it reaches this stage.

  
As the butter continues to bubble and darken, add a few tablespoons (about 2) of whipping cream and stir. Next, whisk in the brown sugar to form a paste; when it becomes too granular, add the remaining 2 tbsp. of cream (setting aside one cup). Add the bourbon, vanilla, and salt. Stir to incorporate and allow to bubble/boil for about 5 minutes. The liquid’s volume should reduce slightly.

Whisk in the milk and remaining cup of whipping cream. Bring to a boil.

  
Meanwhile, separate eggs and place the yolks in a small mixing bowl. Beat with a wire whisk (small bubbles should appear). Gradually add the granulated (white) sugar and beat until sugar is more or less dissolved.

When the milk mixture has reached a boil, allow it to boil for 2-4 minutes; it should begin to expand or become frothy. Remove from heat. Pour about 1 cup of the milk mixture into the eggs, whisking in gradually to temper the eggs. Add in another cup of the milk mixture to the eggs, whisking continuously. Pour the resulting milk-egg mixture into the pot with the remaining milk and whisk in to incorporate fully.

Return the pot to heat. Whisking occasionally, bring to a slight boil; remove the pot immediately from the heat to prevent curdling. The custard should now be thick enough to coat a mixing spoon.

Cool the mixture for about 15 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for 1-2 hours or until thoroughly chilled. Whisk periodically if possible. You can shortcut the chilling by placing in the freezer for about 30 minutes, but stir/whisk every 5 minutes to prevent a skin from forming and the custard from freezing to the metal.

Outfit your ice cream maker and pour in the custard. Follow instructions for your appliance. About 5-10 minutes from completion of churning, add in the cornflake brittle directly to the mixture.

Transfer to airtight containers and freeze.

  
Eat for breakfast at your own risk!

Meriwether’s: Portland, Oregon’s original farm-to-table restaurant

Taste the farm without leaving Portland’s city limits at Meriwether’s, Portland’s first – and still fabulous – true farm to table restaurant.

The farm-to-table concept is no longer just a hot trend in the food world. It’s now so well-integrated into the mainstream restaurant industry that it almost seems commonplace. Yet Meriwether’s literally brought the farm to the table in Portland, well before the concept became fad. Produce, meat, and herbs from nearby Skyline Farms determine each week’s menu.

Portland, Oregon is near and dear to my heart. I’ve spent a few posts paying homage to the quirky City of Hipsters and its food scene. Some of its staples have gone from cult following to tourist trap status, such as Voodoo Doughnut and Salt & Straw (ice creamery). The real stars of Portland’s food scene are those who dared to be different well before it was cool, and who refuse to change their execution to scale up to the masses.

Meriwether’s is one of those pre-Portlandia places. Located in a mostly industrial, slow to gentrify pocket of northwest Portland, the English Tudor-style restaurant and its Ivy-covered garden patio seating area seem out of place, yet perfectly logical in that strangely hipster environment that is blue-collar Portland. Why wouldn’t a farm-to-table restaurant resembling an English country cottage be located next to warehouses, an abandoned processing plant, and a franchise of the fanciest automotive garage you’d go for an oil change maybe anywhere?

 

Each week’s menu tells Meriwether’s story and what is newly in season

 
In oft-cloudy Portland, Meriwether’s is part cozy refuge – with indoor fireplace and dark wood furniture – and part outdoor oasis for those gorgeous summer months. Created to showcase the bounty of Skyline Farm, located 15 miles away and just outside of the Portland city limits, its food is elegantly simple and uncomplicated. It lacks the hipster pretention of trendier urban restaurants, which makes it a great place to relax with friends.

 

Fabulous chilaquiles

 
I did just that for a lovely Sunday brunch in early July. Each of our brunch dishes featured farm-fresh eggs. Though the restaurant is hesitant to make any accommodations or substitutions, they honored my request to turn their breakfast scramble of the week – with asparagus, leeks, goat cheese, and basil – into an omelet. Two friends ordered the scramble themselves, while a third ordered the chilaquiles – topped with fried egg and looking amazing, as that dish I like to call “breakfast nachos” tends to do.

 

The farm scramble

 
My omelet was served with fried, skin-on potatoes. I’d call them blistered more than fried, but that isn’t reflective of how addictive they were. I rarely eat white potatoes (well, ok excepting French fries), and these were indescribably good and worth every calorie. Thick country toast from Pearl Bakery accompanied most brunch dishes. Its thick, pillowy softness really was just the perfect vehicle for the amazing homemade strawberry jam Meriwether’s did me the injustice of placing in front of me. A salad of fresh, slightly bitter garden greens made me feel a little less guilty for the potato indulgence.

Brunch in the garden at Meriwether’s was a memorable Portland experience that reinforced how serious Portland takes its food and its farms. It’s a must-try Portland legend!